A good clean-up and fertilization. To help your lawn free itself of debris and dead grass, you should hand rake through your yard every spring and set your mower on a short setting to bag the clippings and debris.  Be careful not to mow too short; this could cause the blades to scalp the lawn.  The lowest or second to lowest setting on your mower is recommended. Long grass and piles of leaves can cause mold and other diseases so doing a thorough Spring clean-up as early as possible will remove the dead grass and will allow the sun to warm up the soil to start grass growth. The sooner you mow and clear your yard of debris, the quicker your lawn will begin to green up.  (The recommended mower height for the hot summer months is 3”.) Remember to keep your mower blades sharp by sharpening them about once per year. Now that the lawn is cleaned up it’s a perfect time to apply a heavy rate of fertilizer to boost the lawn into greening up!

Green4Ever wants your yard to be the best it possibly can be.  Our commitment to customer satisfaction and our service after the sale makes us the best choice to be your Turf Management Professional. We offer FREE service calls for weeds.  Remember, if weeds are not dying 7 to 10 days following your application-WE NEED TO KNOW!  Please call us for a free service call.

We recommend waiting 24-48 hours to mow after an application. What’s even better is if you’re able to water before you mow because this will help push everything down into the soil better. During the summer months, it’s best not to bag the clippings; it’s best to mulch them. The cut grass blades will release nitrogen back into the soil as they decompose. You can always reference your invoice for specific instructions as to watering and mowing after your application.

Rainfall is always welcomed because rain/water is very important to a healthy yard.  With the spring application, it’s important to get the crabgrass preventative watered in. Throughout the rest of the season, it’s important for the fertilizer to be watered in.  However, the broadleaf weed control (for dandelions, thistles, etc.) can be negatively affected by rain/water. We do watch the weather closely to attempt to perform your application when rain is not a threat for our broadleaf weed control.  However, weather conditions can change quickly and differ from one side of town to the other.  So remember… if weeds aren’t dying in 7 to 10 days after the application, call us and we will come back to re-spray for free. 

Due to the extreme damage power raking does to the root system of the grass, we recommend power-raking only if your yard is a mature yard (meaning 5 years or older) and the thatch build-up is extreme. Meaning, a thatch layer greater than 1″.

The most important aspect of preparing your home to sell is attention to the curb appeal. According to Dave Ramsey, 71% will make a decision from the curb on their first look at the property.  Therefore the small investment you make for your lawn care program can have a return on your investment.  We encourage all our customers to contact us when they move or place their home on the market.  We can continue to service the property until we see a sale pending sign.

We do! The nitrogen in this fertilizer releases slowly, guaranteeing a long feeding period. This treatment also releases other essential minerals to improve overall soil conditions. This organic fertilizer does not include any herbicide (weed killer). We can still come out for weed spot treatments, but these treatments would not be organic products. Call us for a price quote on organic fertilizer!

The 2 most common reasons are 1) The boulevard is surrounded by cement & concrete which amplifies the heat from the sun, making it a very intense “hot-spot.” Making sure to get a deep watering in the boulevard is important. Otherwise over time, it will thin itself out. And 2) in South Dakota, our winters can be long and grueling. In order for us to drive safely on icy, snowy roads, salt and gravel is applied to the roads. When snow plows come through to clear the snow from the road, some of this salt and gravel gets plowed with the snow and lands on your boulevard. The salt changes the Ph of the soil and can cause grass die-back and/or thinning. This now opens up the area to weeds because it’s not a lush, healthy lawn. It’s a good idea to run a rake through the flattened areas to remove debris, rocks, and dead grass. Remember, over-seeding to fill in any thin areas can be done in the spring or the fall; whether it’s for the boulevard or for any other part of your lawn.

Although they look similar, moles and voles are two different animals who create different problems for your lawn.

MOLES: They are rodents that feed on underground insects, earth worms, and grubs (insectivore). They forage for those insects by digging and pushing themselves through the dirt; making an underground tunnel. In doing this, they sever the grass roots and raise the sod. This causes the grass above their tunnel to die. So the damage looks like a 4″ wide tunnel of dead grass that’s raised above the rest of the lawn. These tunnels are soft & can be easily pushed back down by stepping on them. Most of the damage occurs during the growing season as insects are more readily available during this time of year. Green4Ever can help you rid your lawn of moles through the use of mole bait. Don’t hesitate to call for a price quote!

VOLES: They are small rodents (field mouse size) that feed on tree bark, grass, and other vegetation (herbivore). Most vole damage occurs during the winter months because it is easier for them to obtain their food while being protected by snow cover. When the weather warms up and the snow melts, you’ll see the damage. It looks like a 2″ wide, above-ground trail where the grass blades have been chewed off. The trails are not soft and the sod has not been raised, like it is with mole damage. Also when the weather warms up, more predators (snakes, owls, hawks, etc.) are abundant so the vole damage will diminish as they look for other places to hide. Typically these spots will recover fully within 2-3 weeks. Otherwise, you can reseed any areas that were damaged.